Frequently Asked Questions

Using national figures from HomeGuide, an installed epoxy floor costs $4 to $10 per square foot. In garage terms that is about $1,200 to $3,900 for a one-car garage and $1,600 to $5,800 when two cars fit. Polyaspartic is priced higher, roughly $5 to $12 per square foot. A Greensboro floor moves toward the high end when it needs an old coating removed, cracks repaired, a moisture primer or a decorative finish, which is why we only price after we have seen it.

Standard epoxy does not handle sunlight well; HomeGuide scores its UV resistance as only poor to fair, which means it may turn yellow by an open door or outside. It also needs days of cure before you park on it, it can be slick when wet without a grit additive, and it fails when it goes over moisture or poorly prepared concrete. We deal with these by grinding, testing for moisture, adding texture and using UV-stable topcoats where the sun hits.

We test it. During the free on-site estimate we take moisture readings on the slab, at several points on a large floor and wherever it meets the soil at the back wall. If vapor is coming up, the plan includes a primer made for damp concrete. If the readings are too high for any coating to hold, we tell you that instead of selling you a floor.

For most industrial floors the answer is a thick, high-solids epoxy or a urethane-type system put down over diamond-ground or shot-blasted concrete. For 100 percent solids coatings in commercial and industrial spaces, HomeAdvisor's figure is $12 a square foot and up. Which build fits comes down to the loads, the chemicals that land on the floor, hot water washdowns and how much downtime the operation can accept.

Usually not, though some winter days are. Resin needs the slab and the air within its listed temperature range, and the slab needs to stay above the dew point while it cures. On a cold stretch we may heat the space, choose a product rated for lower temperatures, or move the date. A slab that sits below the product's range, or is still wet from melted slush, does not get coated.

Polyaspartic cures much faster and resists UV far better, which suits garages that sit open for long stretches. Epoxy builds thicker coats for a lower material cost and makes a strong base. A lot of the floors we install combine them: epoxy underneath for thickness and adhesion, with polyaspartic on top to handle sun and wear.

HomeGuide gives 10 to 20 years for a solid epoxy floor against only 3 to 5 years for the thin, water-based coatings sold in many store kits. Real life depends on prep, thickness, traffic and care, which is why we spend most of an install on the concrete before any color goes down.

Hot tire pickup happens when a thin coating sits on poorly prepared concrete. A ground slab, a base coat with real thickness and a hard topcoat keep tires from pulling the coating up.

Any smooth, high-gloss finish gets slippery when water is on it. Flake gives the surface some texture, and mixing a fine grit into the topcoat adds more traction, which is welcome on winter mornings when slush drips off the car.

No. We grind off paint and old kit coatings first, since whatever is underneath sets the limit on how well the new coating holds.

For most one- and two-car garages, the work itself fills one to two days, and cure time comes after that. Polyaspartic lets you park sooner than standard epoxy does.

Yes. We need the full floor clear, including shelves sitting on the slab, so we can grind and coat edge to edge.

Yes. Flake, chip and vinyl flake are three names for one system: colored vinyl chips scattered into a resin base, then locked under a clear topcoat.

Chips that are properly embedded in the base and covered by a full topcoat stay put. Loose chips are scraped away before the topcoat, so the finished floor has nothing left to shed.

Not really. A full chip floor has a slight texture, so it takes a deck brush rather than a damp mop for a deep clean, but day to day a broom or leaf blower is enough.

Often, yes, once we have tested the slab for moisture. When vapor is coming through, we switch to a primer built for damp concrete, or we tell you if coating is not a good idea.

Manufacturers offer dozens of blends. We bring a range of samples and can order others if you have something specific in mind.

It is better at some things: faster cure and much better UV resistance. Epoxy builds thicker coats and costs less per coat. For many garages the strongest floor uses both: epoxy as the foundation layer, polyaspartic as the finish.

HomeGuide puts the wait for heavy vehicles at roughly 24 to 48 hours, and Bob Vila says about 24 hours. We give you the exact time for the product we use on your floor.

Often, on a garage with sound concrete and good weather. Heavy repairs, moisture primers or a cold slab can stretch it to two days.

Polyaspartic is rated excellent for UV resistance by HomeGuide, so it holds its color far better than standard epoxy in sunlight.

Not usually. It sets quickly, especially on humid days, and Bob Vila's guide advises against DIY installs.

Yes, it is a full-strength epoxy system, and with the right topcoat it handles foot traffic, furniture and light vehicle use. Its glossy surface shows scratches more than a chip floor, so pads and mats help.

It can, with a UV-stable topcoat if sunlight reaches the floor and grit for wet traction. For a garage that sees a lot of winter slush, a flake floor is often the more practical choice.

It will follow the style and colors we agree on, but each metallic pour is unique. We show samples so you know the range of what to expect.

A smooth, glossy metallic floor is slick when wet. Where water is likely, we can mix grit into the topcoat for traction.

Most rooms take two to three days of work including prep, with cure time before heavy furniture returns.

For most industrial floors, a thick, high-solids epoxy or a urethane-type system over ground concrete. Industrial 100 percent solids coatings begin at $12 per square foot and go higher, per HomeAdvisor. The right system depends on loads, chemicals and cleaning.

It depends on size and system. Bob Vila's guide says a business may need to shut for a day or two; working in phases and using fast-curing coatings can cut that down.

Yes, after we grind off what is failing. Sound old coatings can sometimes be scuffed and recoated, which we check during the walk-through.

Yes. Aisles, walkways, stalls and hazard areas can be set into the coating itself, so they last as long as the floor does.

It does not have to be. We broadcast aggregate into wet areas, ramps and wash bays to add grip.

Plain epoxy is a poor choice in the sun because it yellows. We use polyaspartic or other UV-stable systems outdoors, sometimes over an epoxy base on covered porches.

A coating that is well bonded to ground concrete, with cracks sealed and drainage checked, handles freeze-thaw far better than paint. Avoid heavy rock salt on it.

Not when it has texture. We add chip or fine aggregate to every outdoor coating, with extra on steps.

Common choices are a cool-deck texture, a decorative overlay, or a coating system. By HomeGuide's figures, Kool Deck costs $4 to $6 per square foot and epoxy $4 to $10.

No. Porch paint is removed first, since a coating over paint is only as strong as the paint.